I like typing a lot. It gives me something to constantly improve at, while being a consistent challenge that requires a lot of focused practice. Because it relies mainly on building hand-eye coordination and muscle memory, but does not require much thinking, typing is a satisfying and relaxing activity that I can practice for hours at a time. It is much more satisfying, however, when performed on a keyboard with high-quality mechanical key switches. Disclaimer: Everything in this article is my opinion as a casual typist, as I am nowhere near being an expert on mechanical keyboards.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The key switch is what holds the key up, and registers a button press when it is pushed down, usually with a tactile \u201cclick\u201d at the actuation point. The most common type of keyswitch is the rubber dome, which is found on laptop keyboards and low-end desktop keyboards. It utilizes a small piece of silicone that pops back into place after it\u2019s pressed, like one of those popper toys that jumps in the air. These work just fine on a laptop-style keyboard, because the scissor design holding the keys in place helps maintain a somewhat crisp click. Desktop-style keyboards with deeper keys using rubber domes, though, feel \u201cmushy\u201d in my opinion, with more resistance from the keys and less of a tactile bump during the click. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The higher-end option is a mechanical keyboard. The primary type of mechanical keyswitch uses a spring to hold up the key, with a notched metal slider to create an audible click. The most respected brand for this type of key switch is Cherry. The size of the notch and the resistance of the spring depend on the key switch model, from the super clicky Cherry MX Blue (preferred for typing), to the linear and mushy feeling Cherry MX Red (preferred for gaming). My keyboard came with Cherry MX Brown switches, which sit somewhere between the two (this is my old keyboard, not the one I will be reviewing). One issue I have with this type of key switch is the relatively high amount of resistance before the meeting the actuation point, and the inconsistency in this resistance. Admittedly, the only Cherry switches I\u2019ve used are the browns (medium resistance, medium click) and the greens (high resistance, lots of click), but these issues are consistent with both switches. The uneven resistance before the click makes the click itself feel less impactful, just another bump of resistance. Another detail worth noting is the space after the click: there is still room to press the key down after the keystroke has been entered. I always feel like I\u2019m pressing down farther than I really need to, but the click is hard enough to feel that I\u2019ll end up skipping some keys if I don\u2019t \u201cbottom out\u201d each key. Some people might not have this problem; it\u2019s just something I noticed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
While Cherry switches and their off-brand clones may seem like the only mechanical options available, there is another, much rarer key switch: the buckling spring. The buckling spring switch is primarily found in IBM\u2019s Model M keyboard from 1985. This switch uses a spring that is attached to the keyboard at a slight angle, so that when it is compressed far enough, the spring collapses to one side, or \u201cbuckles.\u201d The keyboard I am reviewing, the Unicomp Ultra Classic, is sort of a replica of the original Model M. It is also possible to purchase a used Model M from somewhere like Ebay, but these keyboards have been in use for decades, and the key switches have likely been worn down. The better-condition keyboards will usually cost hundreds of dollars. Now, onto my review of the Unicomp Ultra Classic, which is a bit more affordable $91.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The key switches in this keyboard are very high quality, and they improve on the Cherry switches in almost every way. Before the click, they feel very smooth and have little resistance to them. The click itself is crisp and much more satisfying than a regular mechanical switch. I also like how the keys don\u2019t need to be pushed down as far, and the actuation point is at the bottom of the keystroke. The noise is also much sharper and more mechanical-sounding than a Cherry keyboard. This might get annoying to anyone else in the room, but it makes the keys a whole lot more satisfying to press. After using this keyboard for a few days, my typing speed has increased by about 10 wpm from what I was getting on my MX Browns.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Unfortunately, the build quality of the keyboard doesn\u2019t match the quality of the key switches. The plastic case feels cheap and warped, as if it\u2019s only being pulled into shape by the bolts holding the keyboard together. When I move my hand across the keys, they move a bit from side to side, and feel like they are loosely attached to the switches. It\u2019s not terrible by any means, but it still feels lower quality than I had expected for the price. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Although the keyboard\u2019s construction doesn\u2019t seem to justify its price, I still think it\u2019s worth the money for the buckling springs. Unless you\u2019re willing to settle for a heavily used Model M from Ebay, or have $400-$500 to shell out for an unused one, the Unicomp Ultra Classic is your best option. Another advantage of Unicomp\u2019s keyboard is the option to get modern features, such as a Windows key or a USB cable, neither of which existed in 1985. I would recommend buckling spring switches to anyone who does a lot of typing. I also recommend this keyboard to anyone who wants to try buckling spring switches because of its availability, cost, and its customizable options. If you can overlook the poor quality construction, this is the best keyboard available today for typing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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